The Big Island, Hawaii- Ho'omaha Li'ili'i (Rest a Little)
Updated: Aug 11
It's In the Aloha
The island of Hawai’i is called the Big Island for a reason (um, it’s big). Don’t underestimate the time it takes to drive from one end to another (there is no shortcut, you are on Hawaiian time—the highways only go around and are often backed up), nor the number of things you may want to stop to see on the way (hikes, beaches, carvings, historical sites, shops). Because my family is spoiled and is afforded chances to visit on a regular basis, I have compiled a list of some of our favorite activities to share with you while you are planning your Hawaiian getaway.
One of the charms of this island is its changing geology and remarkable microclimates. When you land at the airport, you may very well think you have landed on the moon, yet within half an hour you can be driving through lush rainforest, and another hour later find yourself in cool ranch country around Waimea. Along the coasts are the tropical beaches you imagined, with opportunities for snorkeling, sailing, surfing, and whale watching, while a drive south places you in the middle of active volcano country, surrounded by all the sights, sounds, and smells Pele has to offer.
The other charm is the aloha attitude- the people are warm, welcoming, and deeply connected to their culture, and that spirit has a way of affecting visitors too. Take the time to find a good lūʻau, learn a little of the language, watch a hula performance, or simply talk with the people you meet along the way. Immerse yourself in the history and traditions where you can, then plan to take a little of the aloha spirit home with you.
One of my favorite things about the Big Island isn't actually a destination at all—it's the drive between them. You may leave a black lava field and twenty minutes later find yourself winding through misty coffee farms, then emerge into rolling ranch country beneath Mauna Kea. Build extra time into every day. You'll stop for sea turtles, roadside fruit stands, rainbows, horses, lava fields, hidden beaches, and views you never expected. On the Big Island, some of the best discoveries happen between the places you planned to visit.
The Big Island, Hawaii at a Glance
Distances on the Big Island can be deceiving, not because they are especially long, but because you will undoubtedly find reasons to stop. One minute you will be crossing black lava, the next winding through coffee farms or watching horses graze beneath Mauna Kea. A roadside fruit stand turns into lunch, a rainbow turns into a photo stop, and an unplanned detour becomes a discovery you will come back to.
I find it easiest to think of the island in regions:
West Coast (Kona & Kohala): beaches, luxury resorts, snorkeling, coffee farms, petroglyphs, and sunsets.
North: Waimea, Hawi, Hawaiian history, ranch country, and some of the island's most beautiful drives.
East (Hilo): waterfalls, rain forests, botanical gardens, and lush tropical scenery.
South: Volcanoes National Park, lava fields, and the
Kona Coast Luxury Hotels:
Four Seasons Resort infinity pool, golf course, presidential suite
on Big Island Hawaii
Four Seasons infinity pool Sunset Hualalai Four Season's outdoor shower
I would recommend avoiding Kona itself unless it is to catch a whale watching trip or just to poke around for an hour. Most of the resorts which will offer you a relaxing beach experience, with some luxury, are north of the airport.
· Hilton Waikoloa Village
· Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa
· Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii
· The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort
· Mauna Kea Beach Hotel
· Ocean Tower at Hilton Waikoloa Village
Four Seasons Resort Hualalai
Of them all, I cannot speak highly enough of the Four Seasons at Hualalai, for all of the reasons you might expect of a five star resort (incredible golf, five pools, natural ponds, swim-up bars, kids clubs, outdoor fine dining, attentive concierge, luxurious spa), and some you may not (staff that bends over backwards and smiles about it, a cultural center, activities such as a climbing wall, stand-up paddling, kayaking with the incredible Alakai, and did I mention the superb staff?).
If you cannot find a room, or have a larger group, you might check the rental group at Hualalai for condos to rent, most with kitchens and golf carts to get around and beautiful views.
(Restaurants are open to the public—reservations in advance recommended)
Ulu Ocean Grill
This place practically twinkles with magic (or maybe it is the Ducasse-style glass balls dangling at the entrance, or the sun shining on the lagoon as you cross the bridge under the POG colored sky). Appointed with koa tables, open spaces, a wood bar that frames the view to beat all views, and an extensive lanai for looking out over the water, it tops my list for breakfast spots anywhere, ever.
Mid-meal, you can shoo your kids to the sand, only steps away, while you sip your mimosa and fill your plate with the most delectable of brunches: loco mocos, paniolo scrambles, endless bowls of fresh fruit, lemon ricotta pancakes, miso soup to die for, jams and jellies from Hawai’ian fruits, and granola that I stuff into my suitcase, without fail, every trip. DO make an early morning visit to experience this breakfast (keep in mind that beaches are a public space, so a stroll along the water after breakfast reduces your calorie count and you just might happen upon some sea turtles basking in the sun). Ulu also serves dinner; it is a high-end, fine-dining experience which I have enjoyed every time. The price, however, just as with breakfast, includes a premium for your view, and the live music, in addition to the food.
Residents’ Beach House
Hotel guests often don’t realize they can eat here. It is quite literally on the beach, in a quiet area of the resort, across the natural ponds which Haulalai’s marine biologists on staff have maintained through hurricanes and years of environmental changes. On one side is the ocean, on the other, the golf course with a view of Hualalai mountain. The sunsets are breathtaking, so grab a blue chair, order a Big Daddy Mai Tai (just trust me on this one), take a deep breath, and realize you have arrived at the vacation spot of the century. Lunch and dinner here are always spot on, from linguine with clams to a curried fresh catch, salads, sandwiches, it’s all terrific. Enjoy the warm Ke’olu.
Beach Tree Restaurant
This resort gathering spot is a bit harder to get into as it is the main dining spot for most guests, so call to reserve early. There is a large grass area just next to the restaurant deck where kids can play while you stop at the bar for a drink in the sand. Dinner is slightly higher-end than the Beach House, and menu more limited, but food is good. Often, there is live music and hula to watch. And keep your eye out for the local lamp lighter who runs by in Hawaiian garb (you will want to keep your eyes open!)
Exploring the Big Island
South End
Volcanoes National Park
If you have a week or 10 days, a trip to Volcanoes National Park is well worth some time. Take walking shoes, water bottles, rain gear, warm jackets—all you would normally pack for a hike. The drive from Kona takes approximately two hours, and I would recommend taking the southern route one way, and the northern the other. You might even tack on a night in Waimea on the way to or from. Plan on at least one night near the park, perhaps two if you want a full day of hiking and exploring the rim, the park and the nature centers.
Pu'u Loa Trail 
Puʻu Loa Trail, Kalapana lava bike tour, ancient petroglyphs, and lava formations in Hawaiʻi Volcano 
Lava on Big Island Hawaii
Hike through ancient petroglyphs, pahoehoe lava, and take a bike ride across one of Hawaiʻi's newest landscapes.
Hike near the Pu’u Loa Petroglyphs… low altitude with an incredible drive through smaller lava flows. Stop to read the information plaques along the way. The hike itself is in full sun, near the coast, on the lava. You will see all kinds of striking formations, colors and textures of lava, and well-preserved petroglyphs (including my favorite that looks like me and my martini glass).
At Kalapana Cultural Tours, you can rent a bike to get yourselves to the lava flow (it’s a looong walk, bikes are significantly easier and more fun). It is quite a sight to see the lava at night, but remember, you will have to ride or walk back to the start in the dark, over bumpy road. We went in the late afternoon and the flow is still stunning in the early dusk.
Stay South End
Kilauea Lodge
This laidback, beautifully appointed, historical building and hotel is a green oasis in the middle of a hot, dry, but fabulous, area. Fireplaces, quilts and hot tub for cold nights (yes, cold), enjoyable food (don't skip dinner or breakfast here), and several cozy rooms (and gazebo) for kicking back. The location is 10 minutes from the park, nearby is a general store and gas. There is a range of room sizes for families, and for kids, lawn games, a fat cat to pet, beautiful birds and creatures, and nooks and cranies to explore. The back garden area is stunning in the morning, full of dew, Hawaiian flowers, and gorgeous birds. Room Tip: The family rooms/suites in the back, in the separate building, are very quiet, with their own lounge... 19-3948 Old Volcano Rd, Volcano
Hilo (East) Side Activities
‘Akaka Falls
Worth a stop and a walk down the steep pathway, through flowers I promise you will never have seen before. Mist from a smaller waterfall, birds swooping overhead and drooping ferns will tickle your fancy. The ‘Akaka falls themselves will make you stop and take stock, but it is the walk that makes this place special.
Lush rainforest trail, tropical flowers, and ʻAkaka Falls on the Hāmākua Coast of Hawaiʻi. 
Hawaiian Flora near the Akaka Falls trail near Hilo
The Akaka waterfall is impressive, but I love this walk just as much for the rainforest, flowers, and giant ferns along the trail.
Botanic Gardens
While I haven’t been in years, I hear they are as impressive as ever. If you have time to stop on your way to or from Volcanoes, schedule an hour or two to wander this delightful collection of tropical flora.
Hilo (East) Side Restaurants
Kaleo’s Bar and Grill is a good stop if you are taking the northern route. It is about as Hawai’ian as it gets: large prints, large plates, friendly staff. Don’t expect high-end fare, but for a good sandwich, ribs or a salad, it’s the place. 15-2969 Pahoa Village Rd, Pāhoa
Tex’s Drive In for malasadas (similar to donuts—fried dough, often rolled in sugar, stuffed with various flavors of cream filling such as passion fruit (lilikoi), chocolate, etc). 45-690 Pakalana St, Honokaa, Tex's Drive In
North End Activities
Waipi'o Valley
This sacred place deserves more than a quick stop at the lookout, although for now the lookout is as far as most visitors can go independently. The valley road remains closed to pedestrians and to nonresident private vehicles because of continuing rockfall and slope-instability concerns. Hawaiʻi County residents and permitted tour operators may drive down in approved vehicles, which means visitors who want to enter the valley currently need to go with an authorized shuttle or tour.
Waipi'o valley is a stunning place for the view, its history, and its struggles The valley floor north island Waipi'o
Waipi'o valley is a stunning place for the view, its history, and its struggles
I was lucky enough to spend some time talking with the ranger at the entrance, wearing an enormous kukui-nut necklace, who gave me a much better sense of what the closure has meant than I would ever have gotten from simply reading the signs. He talked about the families who still live and farm below, the loss of visitors and business since access was restricted, and the strange position the valley now finds itself in—protected from some of the traffic that once overwhelmed it, but also cut off from much of the economic activity that supported people there.
The valley itself is extraordinary. Waipiʻo was once home to thousands of Native Hawaiians; today fewer than 100 people live among the taro fields, streams and waterfalls below those enormous cliffs. From the overlook, the ranger pointed out Hiʻilawe Falls, dropping deep into the back of the valley, which I am not sure I would have identified on my own.
One important correction to what you remembered about hiking: you cannot currently take the shuttle down and then head off hiking on your own. Pedestrian access on Waipiʻo Valley Road is expressly prohibited under the county emergency rule, and the authorized shuttle is a guided tour rather than transportation that drops hikers off. The shuttle trip currently runs about 105 minutes.
A conversation with the ranger taught me far more about Waipiʻo Valley than the overlook ever could.
That actually makes your ranger encounter more valuable to the article, because your advice can essentially be: go anyway. The view is magnificent, but take ten minutes to talk to whoever is stationed there, read the history, and understand why this is much more than a pretty valley.
Kalōpā Native Forest
If Waipiʻo is the dramatic stop everyone knows, Kalōpā State Recreation Area is almost exactly the opposite—and I think this is the mystery hike in your photographs.
Up in the hills above Honokaʻa is an extraordinary pocket of forest that I somehow had almost entirely to myself. After miles of ocean, lava and open ranchland, suddenly I was walking beneath enormous trees, through ferns, vines and moss, with the trail disappearing into the green ahead of me. Some of the eucalyptus are immense, and deeper in the park the vegetation shifts into native Hawaiian forest with ʻōhiʻa, koa, kōlea and tree ferns.
There is a short Kalōpā Native Forest Nature Trail, roughly 0.7 mile, if you just want a taste of it, but the trail system continues into longer loops and perimeter routes, so it is very easy to turn this into a longer walk. The recreation area borders hundreds of additional acres of forest reserve, and several intersecting trails allow walks ranging from less than a mile to more than six.
Towering native forest, moss-covered roots, giant trees, and a Hawaiian slug along Kalōpā Nature Tra Towering native forest, moss-covered roots, giant trees, and a Hawaiian slug along Kalōpā Nature Tra Towering native forest, moss-covered roots, giant trees, along Kalōpā Nature Trail Hawaiian slug along Kalōpā Nature Tra Kalōpā Nature Trail mystical forest Hidden trail among ferns and green vines in North Hawaii
A completely different Hawaiʻi—cool, quiet, muddy, and filled with towering native forest.
I barely saw another person. Instead, I found enormous roots, ferns growing out of trees, moss covering almost everything, and that spectacular spotted slug—which somehow seemed perfectly at home in a forest that already felt slightly prehistoric. I would not make Kalōpā a must-do for a first-time visitor with three days on the island, but if you like hiking, photography, plants, or simply places where you can walk for a while without seeing anyone else, this is exactly the sort of Big Island detour I love.
Laupāhoehoe Point
One of the places that surprised me most on the Big Island wasn't famous, crowded, or even on most visitors' itineraries. It was Laupāhoehoe Point, a tiny peninsula of black lava jutting into the Pacific along the Hāmākua Coast.
Fisherman off the coast of Laupahoehoe bay beautiful red hawaiian building stands out below green hills of. Laupahoehoe graveyard site from old church at Laupahoehoe Laupāhoehoe Point lava shoreline historic school site, and banyan tree. Amazed by the size of this banyan tree
Laupahoehoe is a moving, historical place where beautiful scenery and powerful history meet.
Today it is peaceful. Fishermen cast lines from the rocks, picnic tables overlook the crashing surf, and families wander the shoreline. But in 1946, a devastating tsunami swept across this point, destroying the village and the school and taking the lives of twenty-four children and teachers. A simple memorial now tells their story, and standing there, looking out over what appears to be such a tranquil place, it is difficult to imagine the force of the water that forever changed this community.
Before you leave, walk over to the enormous banyan tree beside the old school grounds. It was planted by the school more than a century ago and is one of the few living reminders of the community that once filled this point. After reading what happened here in 1946, standing beneath those roots feels very different than simply stopping to admire another beautiful Hawaiian tree.
Even if history isn't usually your thing, stop for twenty minutes. The coastline is spectacular, the lava formations are beautiful, and it is one of those places where Hawaiʻi quietly reminds you that beneath all of its beauty lies an extraordinary geological—and human—story.
Central Island & Mauna Kea
Mauna Kea
Crater view looking down from Visitor Center on Mauna Kea Goats can withstand the incredible heat of hot lava fields Fogbow near visitor center on Mauna Kea Barren and dry on top of Mauna Kea, but take a jacket!
Fogbow, volcanic landscape near Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station. Take a jacket and a 4 wheel drive if you plan to summit- you may see snow.
Unless you are traveling with astronomers, geologists, or someone who simply has to stand on Hawaii’s highest point, I probably would not spend one of your precious vacation days here. There are simply too many other extraordinary places to see on the Big Island. The drive is interesting, but much of it is barren volcanic landscape, and if volcanoes are what you are after, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is a far more rewarding use of your time.
That said, the Visitor Information Station is worth the drive if you happen to be passing through on Saddle Road. At over 9,000 feet, the altitude is no joke. I grew up in Colorado, and even I became a little lightheaded after driving straight up from sea level. When they tell you to spend time acclimating before continuing, they mean it.
The road to the summit requires four-wheel drive, and since I was borrowing a car, I decided not to risk it. There is, however, a short trail up the little puʻu across the road from the visitor center. You may be rewarded with sweeping views—or, like me, a beautiful fogbow.
Take the Long Road to Hawi on the Old Saddle Road
If you only drive Saddle Road to get from one side of the island to the other, you will miss one of my favorite drives on Hawaiʻi. If you have the time, leave the faster route north of the military training area and take the older winding road toward Hawi.
Horses on the slower road. The scenery changes every few miles, and that's the whole point. Take the slower road. The scenery changes every few miles, and that's the whole point.
Take the slower road. The scenery changes every few miles, and that's the whole point.
Once you leave the military grounds behind, the landscape changes almost by the minute. Rolling ranches replace lava, horses graze beneath enormous skies, eucalyptus groves and little towns appear unexpectedly, and every bend seems to offer another reason to pull over. It takes longer, but this road is worth every extra minute.
A Very Unexpected Egret Colony
If you continue along this route toward Hawi in early summer, keep your windows open. Seriously. You will smell them before you see them.
You'll probably smell them before you see them. Large nesting colony of cattle egrets near Hawi with hundreds of birds and chicks.
You'll probably smell them before you see them.
About two hundred yards beyond the turnoff, look up into the trees. An enormous nesting colony of cattle egrets gathers here, with hundreds of birds raising chicks, feeding, squabbling, nesting, and teaching awkward youngsters how to fly. It is noisy, a little smelly, completely unexpected, and absolutely fascinating. I stood there much longer than I had intended just watching all of the activity overhead.
North Kohala
Hawi
Hawi is one of those towns I almost never drive through without stopping. It isn’t large, but I always seem to find another reason to linger—a shop I somehow missed before, something growing in a garden, or another excuse for a good meal.
If Our Founding Farmers is open, do yourself a favor and stop. If they opened at 8:00 in the morning, I would happily eat their ice cream for breakfast. The flavors change with whatever is growing on the island, so you might find mango one day, papaya the next, or lilikoi if you are lucky. It is my favorite ice cream on the Big Island, and I somehow manage to justify stopping every single trip.
I also never leave without wandering through Kohala Grown Market. It is one of those dangerous little places where you stop in for a bottle of water and leave wondering how you are going to fit the chocolates, local jams, wine, frozen dinners, and other Hawaiian treats into your suitcase. If you have a cooler in the car, bring it—you will probably use it.
Lunch is almost always at Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery, a North Kohala institution housed in a beautifully restored plantation building. I love it as much for the atmosphere as the food. Koa bowls, handmade quilts, colorful muʻumuʻu, and local artwork fill the rooms, while the dining areas feel more like you are eating on someone’s old Hawaiian porch than in a restaurant.
If you are feeling more adventurous, Kohala Zipline is just outside town and one of the best zipline experiences on the island. Our family has done this several times, including once in the rain, so take a light cover just in case. The course runs through the forest canopy with rope bridges along the way and a very long final ride over the treetops. We took both children and a grandfather, and everyone walked away with huge grins. Frankly, the bumpy drive to the start gave me more anxiety than the ropes, but the guides are pros.
King Kamehameha's Birthplace & Moʻokini Heiau
History is easy to overlook on the Big Island because the scenery is so spectacular, but if you enjoy understanding the stories behind a place, this is one of the island’s more meaningful detours.
Near Upolu Point, a remote walk leads toward the traditional birthplace of King Kamehameha I, the ruler who would eventually unite the Hawaiian Islands. The setting is windswept and sparse, with lava, crashing surf, and very little around you. According to Hawaiian tradition, Kamehameha was hidden as an infant after his birth to protect him from rival chiefs, and much of his early story is connected to this landscape.
Nearby are the remains of Moʻokini Heiau, one of Hawaiʻi’s oldest and most sacred temples. Built centuries before European contact, it was dedicated to the war god Kū and served as an important religious center for generations. Human sacrifice was practiced here as part of ancient Hawaiian religious ceremonies, a difficult but important part of understanding Hawaiian history.
Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site
If you enjoy understanding the history behind the places you visit, I would absolutely make time for Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site. Built by King Kamehameha I between 1790 and 1791 after a prophecy foretold it would help him unite the Hawaiian Islands, the massive stone temple still overlooks Kawaihae Harbor today.
Before you visit, stop in the visitor center and watch the excellent film. It provides just enough historical context to transform a pile of stones into one of the most significant places in Hawaiian history.
The walk itself is short, but don’t rush it. Continue down toward Pelekane Bay, where so much of that history unfolded, and imagine what this shoreline looked like more than two hundred years ago. According to Hawaiian tradition, sharks were once deliberately fed here, and standing quietly by the water, it is surprisingly easy to picture them circling offshore.
The remains of Mailekini Heiau, John Young’s homestead, and the royal courtyard all add to the story. I left with a much deeper appreciation for King Kamehameha and the remarkable history of the Hawaiian Islands than I had when I arrived.
Kona (West Side) Activities
Dolphin Quest at the Hilton Waikoloa
I know, I know; it sounds, and is, a bit cheesy. However, it is also a memory you will have forever. Plan on being sold a hyper-touristy experience, but I also promise your kids will be wowed (you might be, too). Once you have on your safety vests, you will be able to get in the water with rescued dolphins to give them commands and watch them jump, spin, and squeal. You may even get a dolphin kiss. It will take a full morning or afternoon, but it’s hard to beat for a moment of pure joy. 69-425 Waikoloa Beach Dr, Waikoloa Village, Dolphin Quest.
Kua Bay
I almost hate to put this in my list as it is a secret spot that is already too popular. But if you would like a little boogie boarding, or just a float in a turquoise bay with sand as fine as sugar, this is your place. Check times, as it gets very crowded. Go early, get a parking spot, and plan either to take a shade source with you, or not to stay too long. This beach has also suffered some loss of life of swimmers due to its big waves, but they have put an occasional lifeguard on the beach now. If you need a boogie board, most drug stores sell them, or head to CostCo just north of Kona before you go. It can be hard to find Kua Bay—it is exactly one mile south of the entrance to the Four Seasons, and directly across from the West Hawai’i Veterans’ Cemetery.
Black lava, impossibly blue water, and more goats than hikers.
Black lava, impossibly blue water, and more goats than hikers.
Kīholo Trail
If you enjoy hiking somewhere that still feels undiscovered, this may become one of your favorite mornings on the island. The trail begins from a small pullout along the highway. If you are driving north, you will need eto find a safe place to make a U-turn before parking. From there, the trail crosses old lava toward the coast with almost no shade, so bring plenty of water.
The goats absolutely got my goat. Their camouflage is so perfect that I repeatedly found myself nearly walking into them before they bounded away over lava that looked impossible to navigate.
Eventually the trail reaches a peaceful stretch of coastline with a protected lagoon, a handful of rustic surf shacks, camping areas, and beautiful snorkeling spots. What surprised me most was the contrast.
Scattered through the wild landscape are several enormous oceanfront homes, including one associated with the inventor of important pacemaker technology, yet the beaches remain remarkably quiet.
Sea turtles often visit the lagoon, campers occupy the shoreline, and this was one of the quietest stretches of coast I found anywhere on the island.
Ancient Stories in the Lava
You do not have to drive all the way to Volcanoes National Park to see extraordinary Hawaiian petroglyphs. Two of the island’s most interesting fields are right off the Kohala Coast, and they could not feel more different.
Waikōloa Petroglyph Preserve
This was my favorite of the two. The trail is about half a mile through thorny kiawe trees, with just enough shade to keep you going. It isn’t difficult, although closed-toed shoes are welcome, and reaching the field feels like making a small discovery.
The petroglyphs seem to appear almost out of nowhere, spread across the lava. Walking around the field, it isn’t hard to imagine ancient Hawaiians recording their stories, families, journeys, and daily lives in the rock.
My favorite carving looks suspiciously like someone carrying a lacrosse stick, which admittedly probably says more about me than it does Hawaiian history.
Some petroglyphs are easy to spot. Others reveal themselves only after you slow down.
Some petroglyphs are easy to spot, some require a bit of a. hunt, which makes it all them more fun.
Puakō Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve
The Puakō Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve is much easier to reach and contains the largest concentration of petroglyphs in Hawaiʻi. Thousands of carvings spread across the lava fields, depicting people, canoes, sails, circles, family groups, and patterns whose meanings have unfortunately been lost over time. Even without understanding every symbol, the sheer scale is astounding and offers another reminder of how much history existed here long before hotels and golf courses.
Kona
If you do end up in Kona for a poke-around, make your way to MI's on Ali'i Drive—across from the church, just south of the Farmers' Market, with parking underneath—for lunch, dinner, or happy hour.
Their food is good, solid Italian: pasta, salads, pizza, sandwiches. Their lanai has an ocean view, and the young chef cut his chops at the Four Seasons. The decor is bright with tall ceilings and open doors that make it an airy and cheery place for a gathering. Don't miss the original artwork by RB Holman.
Holualoa
Holualoa is only about fifteen minutes uphill from Kona, but it feels like a different world. The air is cooler (take a rain jacket—yes, really), the coffee farms replace the lava fields, and the pace somehow slows even more (which I didn’t think was possible).
I love spending a few hours here when I want a change of pace and scenery, wandering the little two-block main street with a cup of coffee in hand, popping into whatever shops are open that day, and lingering over lunch before heading back to the coast. There isn’t a long checklist of things to do, but it offers a glimpse of another side of Big Island culture.
The winding drive alone is worth it, passing coffee farms and jungle-like neighborhoods—a dramatic change from the moon-like lava landscape along the Kona coast.
Shops in Holualoa Kona Tree House Holualoa Isle Boutique Holualoa Petals and Profisions White Nene Coffee Roasters Holualoa Farm and Kitchen Main Street Holualoa Holualoa restaurant
Holualoa is one of my favorite places for a (very short) wander without an agenda.
White Nene Coffee Roasters sits just outside Petals & Provisions and makes creative, absolutely delicious coffees. Grab one before wandering town.
Petals & Provisions has helped bring life back to the little main street with Hawaiian trinkets, chocolates, kitchenwares, and beautiful flowers. Do not miss the refrigerators filled with mango cheesecake, Hawaiian desserts, and frozen meals to go.
Kona Treehouse, toward the end of the road, is surrounded by gorgeous plants and flowers, some of which you are unlikely to see anywhere else. Nearly everything inside has a botanical bent, from children's clothing and Hawaiian wear to air plants, homewares, and garden trinkets.
Isle Boutique is one of a few little clothing and jewelry shops worth poking into—if they are open.
Kimo’s Coffee, next to the restaurant, is another excuse for a cup of coffee or a T-shirt for the road.
For lunch, Holualoa Farm & Kitchen is quite literally about the only option in town, but fortunately it is worth it. Recent renovations added chandeliers—no, not exactly traditional Hawaiian decor, but they somehow work with the bamboo, surfboards overhead, running water through the landscaping, and airy, breezy spaces.
Main Street itself is only about two blocks long, scattered with guitar makers, flower shops, clothing boutiques, old Hawaiian buildings, galleries, and old missions. Some buildings are now defunct, but they remain part of the character. This is not a place to rush.
Waimea
Waimea feels worlds away from the lava coast: cooler, greener, often rainy, and surrounded by ranchland. If you are lucky, a rainbow will appear just as you are wondering whether you should have brought a jacket.
Waimea Town Market
If your timing works for a trip to Waimea on a Saturday, don’t miss the larger farmers market near the school. You’ll find flowers, local produce, fresh fruit, homemade treats, artisans, chickens wandering around, and usually a rainbow or two.
rainbows at the waimea market coconut vendor
Fresh flowers, local fruit, and some of the friendliest vendors on the island.
One of my favorite stops is the gentleman happily opening fresh coconuts with a machete so you can drink the juice before scooping out the meat. It doesn’t get much fresher than that (and he still has all of his fingers)!
Parker Ranch / Paniolo Market
The smaller market near Parker Ranch has a different feel, with food trucks, local vendors, and easy access to the Paniolo Heritage exhibits, which offer an interesting introduction to Hawaiʻi’s unexpected cowboy history.
parker ranch saturday market in waimea 
Flowers at Waimea market 
Fruits and Vegetebles Waimea paniolo exhibits are a must see in waimea
Hawaiʻi's cowboy culture is every bit as fascinating as its beaches.
If you have never heard the story of the Hawaiian paniolo, it is well worth twenty or thirty minutes.
Isaacs Art Center
I still miss the Gallery of Great Things, but if you appreciate Hawaiian art, Isaacs Art Center has become my new recommendation. Housed in Waimea's beautifully restored 1915 schoolhouse, it is home to one of Hawaiʻi’s finest collections of Hawaiian art, including the world’s largest collection of Madge Tennent paintings, along with works by Rebecca Holman (yup, THAT Holman), D. Howard Hitchcock, Herb Kawainui Kāne, Lionel Walden, Jean Charlot, Ben Norris, and many other important Hawaiʻi artists.
The sweet fat cat who greets you at the door is just an added perk.
isaacs art center interior 
Beach House by Rebecca Holman
One of the finest collections of Hawaiian art on the island. Artwork by Rebecca Holman
Across the street is a cute grouping of shops :
Waimea Coffee Company—Great java and pastries. Cute little porch to sip on with your paper.
Hula Moon Boutique—I have gotten some of my favorite pieces of clothing and jewelry here. They always carry stylish, but comfortable things. Peruse!
Waimea General Store—Trinkets, baubles, small things to take home (but check Gallery of Great Things first, as her collection is more unusual and impossible to buy on Amazon).
Waimea Eats
Hawaiian Style Café
This is THE place. Go early if you are going for breakfast, as there can often be a line out the door, especially on weekends. The size of the servings will bowl you over—or glue you to your seat—and the creativity of the menu will make you smile.
Never had Spam? Well, here’s your chance. Loco Moco? Get it here. Not hungry? This isn’t the place for you. Sit next to locals and enjoy authentic Hawai’i. Cash only, although it will hardly put a dent in your wallet.
Come hungrey- and early.
About the Author
Jody Holman is the founder of Viewfinder Travel, where she designs customized journeys for curious travelers who value authentic experiences over crowded itineraries.
Drawing on her background in photography, languages, and wine education, she helps clients discover the restaurants, villages, landscapes, and local traditions that often become the most memorable parts of a trip. She specializes in France, Northern California, Hawaiʻi, and Europe.
Every itinerary is designed with the hope that somewhere along the way, you'll stumble upon a place you'll still be talking about years from now.
Copyright 2026 Viewfinder Travel
Photos Copyright 2026 Holman Photography
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