Nice is made for flânerie, especially outside the crush of summer. A guide to Vieux Nice, art, food, hotels and a few easy excursions along the Côte d’Azur, from Antibes and Biot to Èze, Monaco and Menton.
What keeps drawing me back is not only the sensory pleasures, though they are abundant, but also the authentic rhythm of life that persists despite tourism. This is a place where a simple roadside lunch can become a transcendent experience, and that golden hour will stay with you even once you are home.